When I shared my bathroom updates last Fall, the posts became too long to share tips for wall repair.
Sometimes I avoid making repairs after moving a single picture, and I wait until I have several to repair. But, when you remove a bathroom mirror that covers the entire counter-top wall, there are too many holes to ignore. (Click image to see post.)
Even though it’s a little work repairing holes it creates, I definitely recommend replacing your mirror wall with any large mirror you have in your home. It cost me nothing, and I’m so pleased with the results!
This wall in HH’s office has a faux finish I repaired a long while back after moving the curtain rod. You’ll see, I’ve collected examples for you from all over the house.
Let’s get started, shall we?
Sometimes when you remove a screw, you’ll find a plastic tap-in type of wall anchor behind it. Easy Tip #1: leave the screw partially inside the anchor, you can easily remove both screw and anchor with pliers.
Get a good grip and pull it straight out, wiggling a tiny bit at the beginning.
My preference is using Zinc heavy-weight anchor screws, which un-screw to remove. Either way, the reality is that wall anchors leave a large hole. Pulling straight out on the plastic anchors minimizes the damage. Now to repair.
Easy Tip#2: around the rim of the hole, push the edges to the inside with your fingertip or a philips-head (star-tipped or crissy-crossy thingy) screw driver. The goal is to remove any protrusion out from the face of the wall.
Step 1: Fill the hole with joint compound and let it dry completely.
Step 2: Sand smooth. For a large hole like this, you’ll have this indention when dry, so step 3 is needed. For small holes, you’re done.
Step 3: Repeat steps one and two.
Here’s the wall in the bathroom after I filled the holes with joint compound and let it dry. It’s so easy to do many holes at once. Easy Tip #3: with spackling in hand, go throughout your house, filling every hole you see.
With the waiting time between steps, you may as well get them all. Remember when I discussed that in Tips to Tackle Tasks in a Timely Way?
Step #4: paint with primer. (I use Kilz oil-based primer.) This seals the spackling. If you skip this step, you’ll see dull spots when the light hits the re-painted wall at certain angles. Here are the spots after Kilz and paint shown in Bathroom #2 Updates for Impact.
There is an exception, though. When repairing a faux finished wall, don’t prime. (More to follow.)
Step #5: feather the paint into the existing wall to eliminate color variations between old and new paint. Stroke brush lightly in different directions out from repair area one to two inches onto the wall.
REPAIRING FAUX FINISHED WALLS
You want to minimize the area to cover with paint in the repair. Fill only the hole, and don’t spread spackling everywhere. (Or, if you do, wipe with wet cloth to remove dried spackling around the hole repair.)
After the filled hole is dry, paint a base color that matches the wall fairly well. I used a craft paint for this repair.
For the dark tones, I dabbed the area lightly with charcoal color craft paint after dabbing most of the paint onto a paper plate.
Another thing is to try to match the sheen of the wall. Faux-finishes are normally mixed with a glaze, which gives the wall a sheen. My camera flash picked up the shiny craft paint and not the sheen of the wall, but in person, they are a close match.
If the repaired spots are visible with the naked eye from standing on the floor, go back over the spot with flat sheen paint and blotch again with the dabbed-off dark color.
Does this give you any new pointers for repairing walls? Any other issues you’re having with wall repair?
Happy Friday, y’all! See you Sunday ~
I’m sharing this post with Metamorphosis Monday. 🙂