This pleated skirt was made with only 2 yards of fabric. I barely had enough but was determined to use this 2-yard remnant, a previous purchase for another project but unused. This straight-lined skirt has six pleats. My table top is 25″ and is 26-1/4″ from the floor.
A note about fabric: My piece was railroaded, meaning the print runs length-wise on the bolt, rather than the usual width-wise. Cut yours according to the fabric you’re using.
I split the 55-inch width of fabric down the middle. (I’ll use my measurements as an example.) To cut the table top circle, cut a square just a little over the size of the table top plus seam allowance. Mine is 27″ x 27″. Fold fabric in half, then half again.
To cut out the circle, place tape measure end at the folded point of fabric and cut at the measurement that is half your circle size. My cut circle measurement is 26″, so I made this cut 13″ from the folded corner. Beginning at one edge, work your way around, moving tape a few inches, cutting toward measurement line on tape, moving tape a few more inches, more cutting. All while making sure the tape is at the folded point each time you move it.
Surge or zigzag around the circle to finish the edge.
Cut the remaining fabric pieces to be assembled for the skirt, then cut lining to the same measurements. Since there wasn’t enough fabric in my remnant to allow for a hem, I used both 27-1/2″ strips created when I cut my piece down the middle. Add 3″ to your table height measurement for your cut width if you want a hem, if you have enough fabric.
Do you remember pie? From math class,you know, π, that thing that equals 3.14, that thing you multiply with the diameter of a circle to calculate the circumference. Your table top measurement is the diameter, so multiply that with 3.14, and that’s the length you need for a flat skirt, no pleats. Add allowances for seams and pleats. A nice pleat is 4″ folded under, so you add 8″ for each pleat.
A tip: You can hide an opening inside a pleat. So make your skirt flat, with hemmed side edges. I’ll show you the rest as we go along. It’s much easier to arrange pleats on a flat piece!
Sew your fabric skirt pieces together to make a long strip. Do the same with the lining. Sew the top fabric and lining together, right sides together, along the edge that will be the bottom “hem” of the skirt. Iron the seam open, with the seam allowance facing the same direction all the way down the strip.
Before ironing the bottom edge, sew the side seams with the bottom edge turned up about 1/4″.
This will give you a little clearance around the bottom so your lining won’t be peeking out from under there.
Turn and iron the bottom edge, pressing the skirt lining up about 1/4″ from bottom edge of fabric. After this step, you’ll have extra lining at the top portion sticking out past the fabric. Trim off that little bit and surge or zigzag along that “top” edge of the skirt.
Here’s what the side seam and corner looks like when you invert it. Use a point turner to get the point squared off, and press it well. Fold the side hem in 1-1/4″ and stitch.
See how sewing that side seam makes it neat? If you’re adding a “real” hem, now is the time for that.
Press to the desired measurement, then stitch by hand or use the blind hem machine stitch.
Guess what? It’s time for the pleats! We’re so close to being finished, y’all.
Here’s how I pin my pleats.
Divide your circumference measurement by 6 (pleats) to get the measurement between pleats. Begin with a half pleat, your starting edge is the back of the first pleat. Here’s a picture of the pleat after I worked my way around to join the other end of the strip to it.
Now, let’s back up a bit to see my flat piece all laid out with the pleats pinned.
Pin this piece to the circle with right sides together and sew together.
Flip right-side-out and place on your table.
Do you love your new skirt? I’d like to see pictures of your finished table skirt, so message me in my contact page, and I’ll tell you how to send them.
Thank you for visiting with me today. I really enjoyed it a lot!