You saw these new shams yesterday when I gave you the first peek. They are the easiest shams you can make, in my opinion.
For a flange that doesn’t flop forward, you need to add something that gives the sham some body or stiffening. I used an 8-ounce poly quilt batting that was left over from former projects.
These shams are sized for standard pillows with a 3″ flange. The cut measurement for the front fabric is 27″ x 34″. The poly batting and a piece of lining are cut to the same measurements.
Cut two pieces for the reverse side of the sham at 27″ x 22″. I used a leftover fabric from a previous project, which happened to be the perfect color.
For light-colored background front fabrics, you can use simple white lining for the back side. No one ever sees the back, right?
To assemble the front of the sham, lay the 27″ x 34″ lining piece on a flat surface, then place the batting on top of the lining, and the front fabric is placed face-up over the other two pieces.
Your making a poly batting sandwich. 😉
Line up the edges of the 3 layers and pin together to secure for sewing.
Sew around all four sides, then zig-zag or serge to prevent fabric ravel. If you have a serger, you can sew your seam and secure your ravel all in one step.
Now you’re ready for the back. Press a 1″ hem along the edges for the sham opening, then press down another inch.
Sew the hems, then serge or zig-zag around the raw edges of the sham. Place the back pieces face-down on top of the front assembly (front fabric is face-up).
I flipped an edge up (above) so you can see the under side, which will be the outer side after sewing. You may notice that the batting drew up the top fabric so that the back pieces run a little over the edges of the front piece. I sewed mine together with a slight overhang so my back wouldn’t protrude out around the edges when it’s turned right-side-out.
Pin around all sham edges.
Sew around the sham at about 5/8″ from edge.
Cut corners at a slant 1/4″ from the seam. Serge or zig-zag raw edge. You can see in this picture how the reverse side was sewn further from the edge than the front sandwich, about 1/4″ difference. Of course, corners always come out a little different because many sewing machines draw the under fabric while sewing. Well, mine does, anyway.
Invert sham and push corners out well to square them off. Press sham edges so the reverse side doesn’t peek out along the front edge.
Sew a seam through all layers at 3″ from the edge.
Notice that the masking tape placed on the sewing machine at 3″ from needle location gives me a guide for the sham edge to follow. Painter Artist Mom (PAM), who also sews, taught me that trick. Thanks, PAM! See? I was listening. 🙂
When you get close to a turn, measure 3″ from the adjacent edge to show you where exactly to make the turn.
For a crisp corner turn, remember to place your needle in the down position at turn point, lift presser foot, pivot 45°, lower presser foot, and continue sewing.
Press the sham once more and insert your pillow. Here is how the back side of the pillow looks. Notice how nice and smooth the opening lies, rather than gaping open.
The front side shows the pillow is stuffed evenly and fits nicely inside the sham.
Don’t you think these look easy to make? Do you plan to make some pillow shams with a flange?
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