Do you have a need for a swinging door in your home?
We recently added one. The door project began with an antique door that needed a lot of work. Read here about the Antique Door Transformation: Mouse Hole Eliminated.
You’ll need a smooth cased opening for the swinging door installation, not the cased opening for a regular hinged door. We used an existing smooth cased opening that is between our kitchen and hallway.
When repairs on our door were complete (the mouse hole – yuk!), we measured the door and opening and then made the necessary cuts into the door according to the swinging hinge instructions.
I ordered our swinging door hinge from House of Antique Hardware, and the set comes in regular or heavy-duty and in several choices of finishes. I’d found several companies on line that carried the same hinge, but prices were all over the place – from $40 – $120. House of Antique Hardware priced their hinge at under $50, including shipping.
The regular strength hinge was sufficient for our door, which is less than 75 pounds. Click HERE to visit the web page that contains the swinging door hinge choices. (I am not being paid in any way by House of Antique Hardware, nor am I receiving free products from them. I wish I were!)
The picture below shows all that comes in the swinging door hinge set. Ours is not this finish, but I brought over this picture from their web page.
The spring hinge at the bottom of the picture above shows the floor plate attached to it. The floor plate is installed separately and the spring hinge is mounted onto the door. The spring hinge on the door drops onto the floor plate during installation.
In the picture below, you can barely see the cut-out for the floor hinge on the opposite edge of the door. I forgot to get a close-up of it. The silver you see in the cut-out area is something in the background in the garage – not the hinge.
The positive note here is that the picture shows how HH attached screws into each end of the door so we could hang the door from the saw-horses for painting. You can see that the screws are very long and only inserted part of the way into the door, leaving a long portion of each screw to rest on the saw horse rails.
I found another picture that shows a different view, and a small portion of the floor hinge cut-out area is visible.
These screws help you avoid paint smudges on your door and are easy to remove when you no longer need them. Thank you, HH! 🙂
The door hasn’t been painted yet in this picture, but you get the idea, right?
Notice the side edge has been rounded. We prepared the edges for the swinging motion by cutting off the door hinge edge. The door width needed to be reduced slightly for the opening, so it made sense to take off those old door hinge cut-outs.
HH went to work rounding both door edges with a rasp. I didn’t get a picture of that action, because I was holding the door while he worked. He’s a much smoother rasper than I would be. 😉
sweaty handy work was complete, I primed the exposed wood areas, sanded, and painted the entire door.
It’s helpful to test-fit the door into place before the actual installation.
If you look closely, you can see the bottom hinge attached at the bottom of the door for the test-fit. HH had attached the floor plate to the hinge as it would be after installation. While HH held the door into place, I marked the locations for the floor plate and also the upper plate (and hole location in the upper door molding – more details below).
Here is a picture of the pin plate that attaches to the top of the door. That’s the pin location we marked in the top molding.
Back to the bottom plate: after removing the bottom plate from the door hinge, HH bolted the plate into the floor at the marked location.
Being the expert photographer that I am (with a poor memory, to boot), I have no pictures of the floor hinge installed into the notch HH cut out of the door. I also forgot to take a picture of the floor pivot plate after it was attached to the floor (and before the door was installed).
This is what the floor pin looks like with the door in place.
After I had to cut off the half-inch of rotten wood during the renovation, the door turned out to be a little short. A shim took care of the shortage nicely. A hammer drill was instrumental in bolting the plate into our concrete floor that lies beneath the wood flooring. The spring hinge mounted into the door cut-out is now hidden by the cover plates on both sides. Nice!
During the step where HH mounted the bottom plate into the floor, he also drilled the hole for the upper pin. With a drill bit the size of the pin, he drilled the hole about a half-inch deep and attached the provided upper plate. The plate is made with a hole that fits over the drilled hole.
Here’s how the pin end fits into the top plate on the door frame when it’s installed. There’s only about 3/16″ clearance between the door and the frame.
To dress up the door and to cover the doorknob hole, we added push-plates on each side of the door.
We are extremely happy with our door and how secure it is, even during motion. With the weight of stained glass, we were concerned with how strong the hinge would be. Well, no worries there. It’s very secure!
Later this week, I’ll share How to Install Stained Glass Windows. I finally made it into the sewing room recently, so I have some window treatments to share that I made for a friend. I’ll also share soon a little pre-holiday cheat to help make your Thanksgiving meal easier to prepare.
How is your week going? I’d love to know what you’ve been up to. 🙂
Thank you for visiting! ~ I’d like to invite you to follow me through RSS feed, Facebook, Pinterest, Twitter, Google+, Instagram, or Hometalk. Also, I’d love it if you shared Curtain Queen Creates with all your sweet friends.