Last week, I began my shade tutorials with The Sew-Simple Roman Shade. After following that post with “Ringing” a Standard Roman Shade and Hobbling the Hobbled Shade – a Tutorial, we now have this one last tutorial to finish our shades and get them hung.
The next step after attaching rings to your shade, which we will cover today, is to mount it onto a board for hanging. Then we’ll string the draw cords through the rings (stringing) for raising and lowering your shade.
Stringing Roman shades is easy, so let’s get started!
Prior to stringing the shade, you need to prep a board for mounting the shade. Next, attach eye-screws to the under side of the board in line with each “column” of rings. See the tiny eye-screws on the board below?
This picture is from mounting my hobbled shade with the ring tape attached. For a standard Roman shade, you’ll probably not be using ring tape, but you’ll have individual rings sewn in columns and rows.
Mark the upper edge with pins at the board line. To do this, measure from the bottom of the shade, pinning along the upper end, at the finished length measurement. Do this along the width of the shade. Staple your shade to the upper side of the board along the prepared pin line.
For the hobbled shade above, the ring tape should wrap over the board under the shade fabric. Be sure to staple where the ring tape runs under the fabric.
Below, you see how the upper edge should look if the top is exposed in some way. (Mine are mounted inside the window frame, so I leave raw edges sometimes, like in the picture above.)
Place your treatment face-down on a flat surface. Begin each strand of cording at the bottom ring of each “column”. Tie a double or triple knot and dot it with a tad of hot glue.
Oh, maybe I should mention that you need to decide from which side of the window you will draw the shade up and down.
Run each strand up through the rings along the column, through the corresponding ring on the board, and then through the other rings to the end of the board. Continue the cord along the side edge to the point where you want the pull-cord bell to rest when in the down position. (Notice the big fat arrow pointing to the strand ends.)
When hung, this shade will have a left-side pull location. The pulley I like to use is placed in the corner.
These little guys are very handy, as they catch the cords and hold the shade steady in whatever position you desire. Of course, you don’t have to use one of these. You can use an eye-screw for that. I actually use both at the end of my board – the eye-screw is used for the closest strand before running it through the pulley. Here’s a close-up, but it’s from my other shade that has a right-side pull cord.
To thread the cords through the pulley, run each cord through separately, all the way through the opening, and then back down inside between the two rollers. Sorry about this blurry picture. This shot was made with my point and shoot camera – last month while waiting for my new camera to arrive.
I thought it was good to show you this, because behind the pulley, you have a very clear view of the cords going through the eye-screws.
I like to line my cords in the row in the same order they come across the board. (I think it’s an OCD thing – probably not required!)
Test the pulley after you get all the strands pulled through. You can feel the catch – that helps you know which direction to mount it. Basically, the gold roller should be toward the end of your board.
The final step is to run small dowels or ribbing through each row of rings. This is needed for the hobbled shade, but I’ve actually not done this for my standard Roman shades. (For the standard Roman shade, simply run a 1/4″ – 3/16″ dowel through the pocket along the hem line.)
Slide one end into a side hem. (When you use the hem stitch, it goes between the < bites. Without the hem stitch, you can snip 2-3 threads and sew securing stitches by hand.
Snip the other end.
The thing I like about ribbing is that you can bend it slightly to slide it inside the final side hem. You can order ribbing from Textol Supplies, Inc. They sell other drapery supplies, as well.
Please note that there’s an extra charge for shipping the ribbing in the listed 8′ length. Textol will cut them on request and ship for much cheaper.
You can always use dowels, but they aren’t long enough for wider shades. I would definitely use a dowel in the pocket at the hem line because they don’t bend at all. You need that for structure.
In my post about covering a board for window treatment mount, I show two different ways to mount treatments from boards.
After hanging your shades, it’s time to add your bell on the end of the pull cords.
Just snip the tails after tying the knot. Enjoy your shade(s)!
I’m sharing this post at the following link parties. Click the title to join the fun!
Thank you for visiting! ~ I’d like to invite you to follow me through RSS feed, Facebook, Pinterest, Twitter, Google+, Instagram, or Hometalk. Also, I’d love it if you shared Curtain Queen Creates with all your sweet friends.